Friday 24 October | 2014
A new day begins in Rome – sunrise breaks over the Vatican, weaving between the pillars and monuments to cast its warm light and shadows across the piazza. A handful of scattered tourists begin to congregate at the entrance to St Peter’s Basilica, while chairs are laid out in rows for the masses now on their way. Early birds keen to beat the crowds are rewarded with a quiet solemnity and this magical morning light.
The light and shadows theme continues at Coromandel, a melodramatic café that draws on moody dark wood, glass, mirrors, and reflections to create its opulent yet mysterious atmosphere. Here vintage playing cards are complemented with floral china, silver cutlery holders from a bygone era and the sound of Patsy Cline, leaving us to coo over the originality of it all.
The farro croissant (€3.00) catches our attention and turns out to be a buttery rich affair – dense, heavy and indulgent. It is a popular choice here, we say knowingly after going back for seconds and finding they had all disappeared.
Italy has a headstart on the classic eggs Benedict, given the high quality of their prosciutto and aversion to over processed products and preservatives. Coromandel does a stunning interpretation of eggs Benedict (€10.00) complete with homemade hollandaise, crisp prosciutto still hot from the pan, and a toasted flatbread base.
Omelettes, cinnamon toast, waffles with crema di pasticcereia and strawberries all feature on the delicious menu, but we settle for pancakes (€8.00) and are not disappointed as a gold-plated dish of royal fluffy highness is presented.
A more classic collazione option is available, with the card table in the library showcasing lots of homemade treats. Traditional crostata is a highlight, along with chocolate brownie squares, a torta with crumble topping and a plate full of giant biscotti.
Left reminiscing about the farro croissant we try the chocolate croissant (€3.00), which delights us again with its contradictory anti-French heaviness. It tastes homemade and very Italian too, with its Nutella-like filling.
The cakes are a great excuse to stay a while, and why not? Coromandel is a haven of quietness in the historical city centre of Rome, a retreat from the hustle and bustle outside, well equipped with comfy padded chairs and oversize cushions too.
Step back into luxurious old Rome with the locals.
View the brunch menu here:
Via di Monte Giordano 60